Now, there are a few ways to get from Antigua, Guatemala to Leon, Nicaragua. Flying would be the fastest, bus most economical. You could even walk if you really wanted to…(not recommended). I opted for the dreaded Antigua to Leon bus journey.
Here is how it went
I booked my transfer through the Tropicana Hostel. The ticket for the direct shuttle was around $65 USD and the transfer company informed us that they would collect us at 3 am outside of Tropicana. As stingy travellers, we decided against paying for a bed for the night, deeming it almost a waste of money… Mistake number one.
We asked Tropicana if they would allow us to use the facilities as well as the communal areas. Whilst they weren’t too happy with this, they did grant our request. As the sun set, and the stars came out we hunkered down in the lovely outdoor garden starting to worry about the journey to come. As the hours carried on rolling, we became increasingly bored. After multiple telling off by security for being too noisy (we weren’t) we decided to shut up and try to get some shut-eye.
2 am came around fast enough, and after a grand total of zero hours of sleep, we double-checked we had all our belongings and started preparing for pick up. 3 am rolled in and were waiting outside the front of the hostel. 4 am came around soon enough and were still sitting there. 4:30 am, the golden ticket. We board the bus and assume positions for the next 18 hours.
After collecting other travellers from different hostels nestled in the cobbled streets we set on our way.
The Antigua to Leon bus journey
The Antigua to Leon bus journey starts in Antigua (obviously) and passes through El Salvador and Honduras finally ending in Leon. The journey ranges in time, I’ve heard tales of 26 hours but it takes around 18 hours on average.
The first border crossing is into El Salvador, we paid an entry fee of around $10-15 USD per person. This ran smoothly and we soon dropped off half the travellers in a surf town a few hours deep into the country. In hindsight, I probably should have followed suit. Mistake number two.
El Salvador was soon behind us as we crossed into Honduras. At this point it’s midday, the temperature is 40 degrees Celsius, I am one valium deep and the aircon in the van doesn’t work. The mood is low, everybody is tired, hungry and hot. A deadly combo. We pay our border entry fee of around $10 again. Back on the fun bus and 15 minutes up the road, we come to a grinding halt. Few mechanical issues and the driver needs to empty his bladder.
Now, at this point, the bus is like an oven. I want to cry. We finally get going again, fresh air through the windows and things are improving. Thankfully, were nearing the end of our Honduran adventure. Before we know it we’re at the Nicaraguan border.
This is where things get a bit more complicated
This border crossing is like no other in Central America. They require vaccine passports and scan your bags for drones which are also banned. Binoculars are also banned, so none of them either. The final hurdle ends up dragging on. We are stuck in no man’s land for at least 2 hours, with massive queues, aggressive stray dogs and a bus load of hungry, tired and hot travellers. I began to wish I split the journey up with a stop in El Salvador.
After a few hours of toing and froing, we started to make some progress. One by one we’re getting our passports stamped. Again, we fell victim to the border entry fees of around $10 each. Make sure you have small notes or local currency for this one, they wouldn’t accept the only cash I had which was $50.
Finally, we boarded the fun bus, feeling relieved that we had finished with border crossings for the day.
Arriving in Leon
The sun had set and the moon was high in the sky. The time is 10 pm so we are 19 hours deep into the journey (if you include the agreed pick-up time of 3 am). It’s not the horror we had envisioned, nor the 16-hour fairytales I had heard.
We trundle through the city dropping travellers at their hotels one by one. Finally, come to a halt outside of Bigfoot Hostel. The time is around 10:30 pm and I am stinking, hungry and knackered. We check in to our *Non Airconditioned* room. Mistake three.
Our advice on the Antigua to Leon bus journey
Really, the journey was not all bad. Yeah, you hear the horror stories. And yeah, it’s not great. It is, however budget-friendly, but that’s about it.
Would I do it again? Absolutely not. I like to try everything once. That’s my life motto. If I had to make the journey again I would make a pit stop in El Salvador. Spend 1 or 2 nights there. Maybe even a week or two! Split the journey up and make things easier for yourself.
On a more serious note. If you need to make the journey and you need to transit directly, the bus isn’t too bad. It takes the best part of a day the time flies by.
Just make sure you pack a new sense of humour, 1x sleeping pill and portable air conditioning. And remember, no drones or binoculars!
Let us know your thoughts and experiences in the comments below! Don’t forget to get in touch with your funny stories and travel experiences, we would love to provide a platform for guest articles.
P.S. We had loads of blogs written up on Guatemala, make sure to have a read! You can find them HERE.
Talk soon,
Talker.
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