Everything happens for a reason. I live by this motto. It puts everything and anything into perspective and makes me appreciate it a little bit more. But when that something is a 22-hour bus journey that became 40… it’s hard not to question your belief system. The Lima to Cusco bus journey certainly had me doing that.
A route that goes from North to South, starting in the seaside capital of Lima, down the west coast passing the national reserve of Paracas before crossing the mountains to arrive in the beautiful colonial town of Cusco – the gateway to Machu Picchu.
Now this isn’t an unpopular route, and as all backpackers know, taking a bus anywhere is usually the most economical form of travel. I met many people on this trip who also took this bus from Lima to Cusco (or Cusco to Lima) and unfortunately, their journeys were not much better than my own.
Yes a flight would have been faster and arguably a little easier, but we’re budget travelling South America, so surely a bus is the better option?
Well as I continued my travels, scarred from this seemingly never ending bus trip I have recounted this tale many times and every time I am asked the same question: How do I travel from Lima to Cusco avoiding a forty hour bus?
Here’s my advice to make this route a little easier
Consider the rainy season in Peru:
The curious thing about the weather in Peru is that it varies depending on where you are. My Peru backpacking itinerary of 3 to 4 weeks was during February and March. At this time of year on the coast, it is summer and unbelievably warm. At the same time, in the Peruvian mountains, it is winter and very very wet. Unfortunately this results in many landslides, rock falls and collapsing roads which in turn causes road blocks and delays.
This is the unpredictability of nature and with climate change, it likely will only become more of a problem. As I was travelling in the rainy season and only spoke to other travellers who had taken this same bus just a couple of months on either side of me, I have only heard stories similar to my own. Therefore I advise you to take into consideration the season in which you are travelling as the likelihood of delays and long alternate routes is going to be lower during the warmer mountain seasons.
Think about your route:
Whether you are only backpacking Peru or it is just one country in your South America backpacking trip, there are many places you can visit between Cusco and Lima that will avoid one (very long) Lima to Cusco bus journey.
My own Peru backpacking route meant I travelled from the Bolivian border on the south, up the west coast to Lima, before my previously mentioned 40 hour bus back down to Cusco. Then I caught a flight because the thought of another bus…
I know, sounds like it doesn’t make sense but it did work and it does mean I can offer you both perspectives.
Here is a great Peru travel route you can take whatever your direction of travel:
- Arequipa: a beautiful colonial town in southern Peru with a rich heritage, pretty buildings and activities such as cooking classes, kayaking or a visit to Colca Canyon.
- Huacachina (Ica): a small oasis in the desert where you can spend a couple of days enduring the dunes in a buggy, sand boarding or even skiing down the slopes. You can also do a day trip to the Nazca Lines from here.
- Paracas: a national reserve on the coast under 2 hours from ica. The perfect place to relax, take part in water sports, visit the national reserve or take a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands to see Sea lions and penguins.
weigh up ALL your options
Each traveller has different itineraries, finances and time constraints so what works for one person, doesn’t necessarily work for another.
This is why I recommend looking at all your options, because maybe for you a 40 hour bus isn’t the worst thing in the world.
Alternatively, the majority of us may be on a budget but internal flights don’t cost the earth and can save you a lot of time, especially if you’re on a shorter trip.
All I know is if someone had told me I was going to be squished into a smelly bus for 40 hours with an even smellier bathroom, I would have booked a flight immediately.
But everything does happen for a reason. The reason being I have now potentially saved you a whole lot of time and discomfort on the Lima to Cusco bus journey!
Side note:
Just wanted to give a big shoutout to Jess, our awesome guest writer at Talkers Travels. By the way, if you’ve got any funny travel tales or great advice, get in touch! We’d love to hear from you and maybe even feature your article.
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